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Electronic Meat Grinders: Types, Uses and Tips for Buyers

May 25, 2015 Leave a comment

Buying an electric meat grinder is a great investment, especially if you plan on grinding your own fresh meats regularly. Everyone from home cooks, to butchers, deli owners and restauranteurs use these devices because they are more efficient, safer and more sanitary than manual crank grinders. The biggest advantage, though, is that meat grinders produce meat that is fresher and tastes better than store-bought ground meats and sausages.

Yet it can be a challenge to buy an electric grinder. What type is suited for the meats that you will be grinding? Are there better grinders for restaurants and other places that require high-volume output? What features and specifications are right for you? For first-time buyers, the process can be overwhelming, but wading through the waters is worth it.

You’ll be able to produce your own ground beef and sausage – at a fraction of the cost of store-bought pre-packaged meats. Or if you’re upgrading from a manual hand-crank grinder, an electric model will pay for itself in time and energy saved.

What Types of Meat Grinders Are Available

Most grinders – both manual, electric or food processor attachments – all feature the same simple parts. There is a pusher and hopper, which is where diced meat is added to the machine. Restaurants and food processing plants should purchase a device with a larger hopper that can accommodate more meat. This makes it easier to process large quantities of meat, eliminating the need for constant reloading.

Once the meat is in the hopper, it is pushed toward the blade by the screw. With electric grinders, the screw is powered by a motor. The grinding is done by the blade and plate. The blade finely minces the meat, and it is pushed through the plate. Each plate has small holes on it, which determines the fineness of the grind. For instance, sausage may require a plate with large holes, while ground beef requires a plate with small holes.

Electric Meat Grinder with Sausage Attachment

Tips for Proper Use of Your Grinder

Electric meat grinders make life simpler, but they do require some maintenance and proper handling for producing the best results. Here are a few tips that can help:

Maintain temperature: For safe handling, meat needs to be kept below a certain temperature for sanitary reasons. But maintaining proper temperatures also makes grinding easier. Warm meats are harder on the blade and plate, and when your meat isn’t proper temperature, it can “smear” between the blade and the plate. Keeping the meat and the equipment at the proper temperature will prevent this.
Trim meat properly: Sinew and fat wreak havoc on your grinder. The sinew wraps around the blade causing “grinder smear,” and excess fat can become trapped in front of the plate. That’s why you should properly trim all meat, removing excess fat and sinew. In addition, you should refer to your grinder’s instructions for the size of the meat cubes you can feed into the machine. More powerful grinders can process larger cuts, while grinders with less wattage work better with smaller cuts.
Remove bones: Some meat grinders are able to process soft bones, like tendons, which are found in chicken and beef. Yet, large bones can damage many electric grinders. If you’ll be processing a lot of bone – for instance, for dog food – an all-metal grinder with substantial power would be best.
Regularly sharpen your blade: A dull blade can ruin your grind. That’s why they should be regularly maintained, sharpened or replaced. Warning signs for a dull blade are smear, the grinding rate will slow down, and the grind won’t be as smooth. Blades are a low-cost accessory, and, in general, only require maintenance once or twice per year.
Clean your grinder after each use: Electric grinders are made for easy disassembly, and they should be washed thoroughly after each use. This will prevent contamination and bacteria growth. Plus, a dirty grinder won’t properly process meat.
Be aware of motor size and wattage: Electric meat grinders are available with a variety of powers. Butchers and restaurants require meat grinders with powerful motors that can process larger quantities of meat. More power enables smoother grinding.

Find the best prices on electronic meat grinders at Deelat.com. We’re your source for competitively priced food industry equipment.

Hearing Protection Tools: Ear Plugs and Ear Mitts

May 20, 2015 Leave a comment

In the construction and manufacturing industry, hearing damage is a real danger, and steps should be taken to prevent hearing loss. According to the Centers for Disease Control, four million Americans work in places where there is a risk for hearing damage. Repeated exposure to excessive noise can cause permanent hearing loss, which cannot be corrected through surgery or with hearing aids.

There are a variety of hearing protection devises on the market, like PVC earbuds, ear mitts and canal caps. These convenient and comfortable devices can be used to lower the risk for hearing loss, and they’re ideal for use in a variety of situations:

Loud work environments
At concerts and night clubs
At gun ranges and when hunting
When operating heavy machinery

How Can Noise Damage Hearing

Both one-time and repeated exposure to loud noises can cause permanent hearing loss, and loud noise degrades tiny sensory hairs in the inner ear. Over time, these hairs are damaged, and they are not regenerated. Thus, hearing loss is permanent. But how loud is too loud? The National Institute for Occupational Safety and Health suggests that workers are at risk during an eight-hour day at worksites with noise levels above 85 decibels, which is roughly equivalent to running a lawn mower.

This level can be quickly reached in a variety of situations. For instance, in construction, using a jackhammer produces 100 decibels of noise. A gunshot produces 140 decibels. And a rock concert, at its loudest, can potentially reach 150 decibels. Noise exceeding 85 decibels can be potentially damaging, and in these situations, the risk for hearing loss is high. Ear protection should be used in these situations.

You can measure sound levels using a sound level meter, but when you don’t have access to a meter, you can also estimate the noise level. Here’s a rule of thumb: Standing two to three feet away from your co-worker, if you have to raise your voice above the noise, it’s likely exceeding 85 decibels of sound.

How Effective Is Ear Prevention at Reducing Noise?

All ear protection equipment reduces noise according to an NRR rating, generally ranging between 10 and 33 decibels. This rating refers to the noise reduction at the ear, and the overall reduction is determined by subtracting 7 from the NRR number and dividing it by two. So for instance, an NRR 33 hearing protection device, like ear mitts, reduces the level by 13 decibels. If you were in a 110-decibel environment, the noise would be 97 decibels.

Ear protection devices can be used in tandem, like foam ear plugs and ear mitts. This increases the overall noise reduction. What types of noise-reducing devices work best? The key is selecting a comfortable device that is convenient to use. Common types include:

Ear mitts: These look similar to studio headphones, and they completely cover the ear. The biggest advantage is that proper use is simpler; they only need to be placed directly over the ear. They can also be used with foam ear plugs underneath. One disadvantage is that they are bulkier, heavier and they can get hot.
Foam ear plugs: These are a classic noise reduction device, and they are used by everyone from hunters, to construction works, and concert attendees. Foam plugs are made from moldable foam, they are convenient, low-cost and they’re comfortable. They’re easy to use as they slip and fit into the ear, but must be properly placed in the ear to guarantee maximum protection.

Find a great selection of hearing protection plugs on Deelat.com. We have the best prices on foam ear plugs, PVC ear plugs and ear mitts.

Explosion-Proof Ventilation Fans: Applications and Common Uses

May 15, 2015 Leave a comment

An explosion-proof ventilation fan, or hazardous location fan, is a widely used piece of equipment in industrial facilities and on construction sites. These specially designed fans provide proper ventilation for spaces where flammable gases, vapors, or dusts may be present. Explosion-proof ventilation fans are designed to be non-sparking, which minimizes the risk for sparks that could ignite potentially flammable materials. That means the entire fan is constructed with non-sparking materials, including an explosion-proof motor and aluminum or copper fan blades.

These fans have practical uses. For instance, if you were working in an environment with flammable gases, if the fan were to tip over and hit against another metal object, a spark would very likely be emitted. In the most at-risk locations, one spark is all it takes to cause an explosion. Hazardous location ventilation equipment is designed to reduce the risk for these sorts of accidents.

Phase Explosive Proof Portable Ventilator

Locations That Require Hazardous Location Fans

A range of construction and industrial locations require the use of explosion-proof ventilation fans, and different types of ventilators should be used based on the facility’s explosion risk. For instance, woodworking facilities pose one of the greatest risks for explosion and fire. These facilities, in turn, require the safest equipment available.

There’s a complex classification for these fans, and they’re categorized into three class types that represent the risk factor for an explosion of a type of material. Materials with low ignition points pose the biggest threat, and are thus, grouped into Class III.

Class I facilities include dry cleaning plants, paint spray booths, and oil refineries, which are facilities in which the materials have high ignition points. Examples of Class II facilities include grain elevators, food powder processing plants, i.e. flour, sugar and cocoa, and fireworks manufacturing facilities. The risk for explosion in these facilities is greater, and the materials have lower ignition points. Finally, facilities with the highest risk are placed in Class III, include locations like woodworking facilities, cotton production plants, and textile mills.

Phase Explosive Proof Portable Ventilator - Side — Phase Explosive Proof Portable Ventilator – Side

Understanding Fan Rating System

Each explosive-proof fan is marked with a specific code that provides vital safety information. When selecting a ventilation fan, refer to the fans safety code. Higher-risk workspaces require fans that meet safer standards, and using the wrong type of fan can be potentially hazardous.

These codes contain four pieces of information: The classification standard (either Canadian or American), the protection concept code, the gas group, and the temperature code. A typical marking would look something like this:

Ex t IIB T4

“Ex” means Explosion Protection, and it is the Canadian standard for explosion-proof electronics. Alternatively, the American code is “AEx”. In addition, the “t” refers to the protection concept code, the “IIB” would be the gas group, and “T4” is the temperature code. These help differentiate the type of fan, and the safeguards against the material that is being handled.

There are four gas groups: I, IIA, IIB, and IIC. IIC is the gas group that poses the greatest risk for explosion or fire, and includes vapors like Hydrogen and acetylene. Fans that are marked IIC are suitable for IIB, IIA and I gas group environments.

Deelat.com is your source for high quality, safety-rated explosion-proof ventilation fans. Browse our extensive inventory of ventilation equipment available at the best prices today.

Solar Powered Gable Fans: Sizes, Uses, and Installation Tips

May 13, 2015 Leave a comment

In the summer months, the roof of your home is very hot, up to 150 degrees or more. The sun beats down on the roof’s shingles, which absorb the heat, and that heat is conducted into the attic. If you’ve ever stepped into your attic in the summer, you know that it is generally much hotter than your home. That’s caused by all that conducted heat.

The reason your attic stays so warm, especially in older homes, is that the air isn’t circulated. In turn, the heat from the roof continues to enter, and attics can get superhot. This creates a few problems: The heat in the attic can escape, increasing the home’s temperature and cooling costs. In fact, it’s estimated that a hot attic can cause a 30 percent increase in cooling bills, and overall home temperature can increase 10 degrees or more as a result.

Gable fans are one method for combatting this problem. These fans are used to circulate the hot air out of the attic, and they’re attached to an exterior-facing wall in the attic. By doing this, the hot air is circulated outside, while cooler air is circulated in. Through this process, gable fans can decrease ambient attic temperature by as much as 60 degrees or more.

Installation Tips for Gable Fans

Standard gable fans are attached to the interior power supply, which can increase your electricity bill. Solar gable fans, though, offer an alternative. They’re powered by a small solar panel – ranging in size from 10 to 30 watts – and this solar panel is affixed to the home’s roof. The solar power supply then runs and powers the fan, either remotely or via a power cord.

Solar Panel inlcuded with Deelat Gable Fan

Most often, gable fans are fitted into existing gable vents, which are small outlets within the wall that enables the fan to circulate air to the exterior. If you’re purchasing a replacement gable fan, it’s often best to find a size that properly fits into the existing vent. Yet, even if your home is without a gable vent, you can create one. Gable vents can be installed using a few household tools and scrap lumber to create a frame on the interior.

When installing a solar gable fan, the key is aligning the solar panel on the roof so that it has sufficient access to sunlight. Generally, the gable vent is just under the eave of the home, so the panel should be affixed to the more southern-facing slope. Many models also have tilting panels, which make it easier to direct the panel towards the sun.

Purchasing a Solar Powered Gable Fan

The biggest point to consider when purchasing a solar gable fan is the exhaust capacity of the fan. A larger space requires a more powerful fan with a greater exhaust capacity. This is measured in CFM – or cubic feet per minute – which is the amount of air the fan circulates every minute.

CFM output is determined by the length, width and height or pitch of the attic, as well as the color of the roof. Darker roofs absorb more heat, and ultimately conduct more heat into the attic. Plus, larger spaces need a fan with a greater CFM. There are calculators available online that can help you determine the size of the gable fan that you’ll need, but in general, the CFM is often fairly close to the square footage of the attic space, i.e. a 1,200 square foot attic would need a fan rated around 1,200 CFM.

Finally, you’ll also want to find the measurements of the host – or housing frame. The easiest solution is to match a replacement gable fan to the existing housing, but smaller housings may be altered to accommodate a slightly larger fan.

Find a variety of solar-powered ventilation systems on Deelat.com. We have unbeatable prices on quality ventilation systems, including 12W, 15W, 27W and 30W solar gable fans.

Electric Baseboard Heaters: Tips for Buyers

May 7, 2015 Leave a comment

When it comes to home heating, electric baseboard heaters are a popular choice. They’re cost-effective and attractive – blending in effortlessly with your room’s baseboards – and installation is often efficient and requires only basic electrical know-how.

Yet, not all styles and sizes of electric baseboard heaters are the same, and it’s important that you select the correct type of baseboard heater for your home. A heater with the wrong specifications can cause electrical damage, or more severe problems. This can easily be avoided by understanding baseboard heater basics.

First, you should consider the heater’s wattage, voltage, location in the room, and the number of heaters you will be installing in a room. Understanding these four criteria is important, and it will help you purchase the correct heater.

Heater Wattage

The size of an electric baseboard heater is given in wattage, and this is one of the most important factors to consider when purchasing a new heater. For example, 1250-watt heaters are a common type, but there are a wide range of values from 500 up to 4,000 watts or more. You need to match the wattage of the heater to the size of the room. This will ensure that the heater can properly heat the entire room.

If you select something too small, you run the rise of not creating enough heat, and too big can result in overheating. A rule of thumb: Your heater should provide 10 to 12 watts per square foot. This depends on a variety of factors. Generally, newly constructed homes benefit from better insulation and energy efficient materials, and thus, the 10-watt per square foot mark works just fine. For rooms with high ceilings, lots of windows or rooms in older structures, the wattage per square foot should be closer to 12.

So if you had a room measuring 10×12.5 feet, or 125 square feet, you would select a heater in the range of 1250 to 1500 watts, depending on the room’s insulated value.

Understanding Heater Voltage

Like wattage, voltage is another important factor to consider when purchasing baseboard heaters. This is a measure that will require, at least, basic electrical knowledge, because you’ll need to match the heater’s voltage to the available voltage where you want to install it.

For instance, 120V and 240V systems are widely available, but they aren’t interchangeable. Using the incorrect voltage can damage the heater itself, especially with hydronic electrical heaters, and cause uneven heating. A 120V on a 240V outlet will only produce a quarter of the heat, while a 240V heater on an available 120V circuit could potentially fry the heating element.

If you’re unsure of the voltage your home can support, you should contact a licensed electrician who can answer that question. Generally, the larger the room, the more volts the heater will need, and for rooms greater than 150 square feet, a 240V and above heater is the way to go.

Installation: Location, Number of Heaters Being Installed

Larger rooms may require more than one heater for proper temperature control, and in most cases, additional heaters can be installed in one space. The biggest thing to consider in these cases is again matching the home’s available voltage, circuit space and amperage to that of the heaters. Generally, a 240V outlet will support two baseboard heaters.

Finally, baseboard heaters provide a ton of flexibility in setup, but there are a few rules that you’ll want to follow. First, choose a location without obstruction, which could include drapes, electrical wiring and carpeting. The carpet should not obstruct the bottom, air-intake of the heater. As far as location, baseboard heaters are often placed on an outside wall, as these walls often lose heat the fastest. This enables the coldest wall to heat first.

Shop for affordable, high-quality electronic baseboard heaters on Deelat.com. We offer the best prices on a select group of models – guaranteed.