DEELAT Blog: Page 30 Automotive Wire Harness Tape: Uses, Types and Applications

Automotive Wire Harness Tape: Uses, Types and Applications

June 15, 2015 Leave a comment

In automobiles, boats and planes, hundreds or thousands of yards of wires are used, and they’re often bundled together into what’s known as a wire or cable harness. In a wire harness, a bundle of a dozen wires are attached together using wire harness tape. This wrapping creates a tight seal, and it makes the entire bundle easier to work with. For example, instead of 20 different wires that need to be routed throughout the vehicle; those 20 wires can be attached into a bundle, which makes routing wires easier.

Wire harness tape isn’t like typical electrical tape, and often, it’s recommended that standard electrical tape shouldn’t be used in automotive applications. These differences include:

Self-Bonding: Automotive harness tape doesn’t have a sticky adhesive like electrical tape. Instead, automotive tape bonds to itself, creating a watertight seal. Electrical tape on the other hand, when it’s heated up, can start to “weep” its adhesive, which creates a sticky mess inside the vehicle. Since the tape is self-vulcanizing, it is also easier to remove, which is ideal for faster automotive repairs.
Heat-Tested: Automotive tape is designed to withstand extreme temperatures created by the engine block. Each type of tape is tested up to a certain temperature, and in addition, they’re flame retardant.
Weather Proof: When applied properly, wire harness tape creates a weather proof seal. This protects the harness from engine fluids and oils that may seep onto the harness, as well as moisture that gets into the engine. Electrical tape isn’t designed to stringently protect against weather and moisture, and therefore, electrical tape is more likely to lose its adhesive and unravel from the harness.

In addition, these tapes are created using a variety of materials, including PVC and vinyl, and since they do not contain a sticky adhesive, they’re required to be wrapped more tightly.

Automotive Wire Harness Tape in a Vehicle

Common Causes for Wire Harness Repair

In automotive applications, wire harness tape can be used in a variety of situations. Often, antique cars may need to have the wire harness rebuilt – which requires a new wrapping, once all proper wires have been spliced. After-market electrical components, like stereos, for instance, also require a new harness to be built, and many drivers choose to modify their wire harness. In addition, wire harness failures are also caused by:

Extensive body damage: Most harness run inside body panels on a vehicle. Thusly, following accidents that cause extensive body damage, wires that are inside the body can be damaged as well.
Improperly installed harnesses: After-market parts, for instance a new stereo, are often installed hastily with electrical tape. These quick-fix wire harnesses degrade more quickly and can lead to the need for wiring repairs.
Water damage: This is a very common cause of electrical failure in vehicles, which requires the harness to be rebuilt. Water damage can be caused by rusted out body panels, which allow water to get to the harness, as well as plugged drain holes and water damage around sunroofs.
Improperly routed wiring: Body repairs and major engine work often result in the need for removing wiring. In turn, these wires can become improperly routed when the vehicle is put back together. That can cause wires to be located closer to heat sources, resulting in electrical damage.

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Copper Pipe Sweat Fittings: Applications and How to Solder Copper Pipe

June 11, 2015 Leave a comment

Copper piping is widely used in plumbing applications. One common way for creating water-tight seals in your piping is by sweating – or soldering – the copper piping. This is a process of attaching a fitting, or pipe joint, to a piece of copper piping. Copper fittings come in a variety of shapes to help in routing plumbing pipes, including T-joints, L-joints and curved joints.

Fortunately, copper pipe sweating is straightforward, and it’s possible for beginning DIYers to accomplish. The process can be accomplished with basic tools, like pipe cutters, a wire brush, flux paste (which is sometimes called solder paste), a butane torch, and lead-free solder. Once you’ve selected the correct pipe fitting – both in size and shape – you can begin sweating the fitting to create a long-lasting, waterproof joint.

How to Properly Sweat a Copper Pipe Joint

Copper pipe soldering begins with some prep work, including preparing the pipe and fitting for the solder. First, you should measure the pipe, and be sure to include the added length of the fitting that will be attached. In general, one half-inch should be added to the length for each fitting that will be used. Then, the process is fairly straightforward. Steps include:

Cutting the pipe: Start by cutting the pipe to size. Pipe cutters are specialized tools for this process, yet a hack saw will also work. Remember that the length of the pipe will grow roughly a half inch for each fitting that is attached, so don’t over- or undercut the pipe.
Removing the burrs: When you cut the pipe, burrs will form on the end, and these must be removed. If they’re left behind, they can diminish the integrity of the solder. You can accomplish this task by using a wire brush inside and outside of the pipe.
Cleaning the pipe and fitting: Next, clean the pipe and fitting using a specialized pipe cleaning brush, sandpaper or steel wool. This will prepare both the fitting and the pipe for soldering, and it’s an important step, as debris and dirt may have collected on either end, which can weaken the bond.
Apply flux paste to fitting and pipe: Solder or flux paste is a bonding solution that helps maximize the strength of the joint. It should be spread evenly around the end of the pipe on the outside, as well as on the inside of the clean fitting. Then, after the fitting has been cleaned and covered in flux paste, you can attach the pipe.
Sweating a copper pipe fitting
Sweat the joint with your butane torch: Finally, once the fitting and pipe have been connected, it’s time to heat the joint. If you’ve never used a butane torch, there is an outer flame (darker blue) and inner flame (lighter blue). The inner flame is much hotter, and should be applied directly to the fitting. Next, run the flame along the middle of the pipe, and be sure not to heat the areas where flux paste was applied directly. Don’t overheat the copper pipe either – this will result in discoloration.
Apply solder to the joint: The last step is to apply lead-free solder to the joint. Solder is a metallic substance that melts easily. When the pipe has reached temperature, solder will melt easily along the joint. To create the seal, apply a light coat of solder around the joint. But be sure not to over-apply. Adding too much solder can cause leaking, allowing solder to seep into the joint, which can diminish the effectiveness of the pipe.
Copper Pipe using Sweat fittings

There you have it. Sweating a copper pipe is as easy as that. Of course, be careful once you’ve soldered the pipe; it will be very hot. Therefore, you need to allow enough time for the pipe to cool. Once it’s cooled, you can finish the solder by cleaning off excess solder with a shop rag. Then, you’ll have a properly soldered joint that will last for a decade or more.

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Wood Floor Mats and Anti-Fatigue Mats: Useful Workplace Protectors

June 8, 2015 Leave a comment

Hard wood floors are beautiful and they can make any property look more appealing. Yet, they need to be protected, especially highly trafficked areas like office workspaces. Wood floor chair mats are the perfect tool for protecting your investment. Not only do chair mats protect wooden and vinyl floor surfaces, they’re also a useful tool for creating comfortable workspaces in offices.

Anti-fatigue mats are another option. These are related to hard wood floor mats in that they protect surfaces, but they’re also used to aid worker productivity and comfort. Anti-fatigue mats are designed so that when a worker is standing on them for long periods of time, they ease foot, leg and lower back strain. They’re recommended by a variety of worker safety organizations in North America.

Chair Floor Mats: Where to Use Them

Chair floor mats are made from a variety of materials, and they’re used primarily on wooden or vinyl floors under desks and work tables. They can also be used in carpeted offices to increase chair mobility. These mats serve a variety of purposes, including:

Floor Protection: In high-trafficked areas, wood floor mats prevent common problems like scratching and nicking. They lie almost flush with the floor, protecting the surface from moving chairs and falling objects. Plus, they’re made from heavy-duty materials, like vinyl and rubber, so they are designed to withstand increased traffic.
Improved Mobility: Another important feature of chair mats is that they’re created with both textured and smooth surfaces. Textured surfaces are perfect for spaces that where a worker will be standing and moving around, providing increased traction. Smooth surfaces are designed to enhance chair mobility, and they’re available in a variety of sizes.
Workspace Design: Floor mats are available in all types of colors and sizes. So not only are they great for protecting surfaces, but they can also be used as an accent in workspace design. Clear mats are often used, as they blend in with the existing flooring. But colored mats provide can bring color into a workspace.
Anti-Fatigue Mat

What Are Anti-Fatigue Mats?

Another type of floor protector, anti-fatigue mats serve two purposes: They protect a surface, but they’re also designed to reduce worker fatigue caused by standing on a hard surface for extended periods of time. They are made from cushioned materials like rubber and carpeting, as well as dense vinyl and wood.

Whereas chair mats are designed to increase movability and protect the flooring, anti-fatigue mats are designed for spaces where employees will be standing for extended periods of time. They’re often used in industrial and manufacturing spaces, and they’ve been proven to relieve foot weariness that’s caused by long periods of standing. Like chair mats, anti-fatigue mats are available in a variety of sizes and colors to fit the aesthetics of any workspace.

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Double Action Spring Hinges: What Are They and How Are They Different

June 5, 2015 Leave a comment

Double action spring hinges are a specialized type of spring-loaded hinge that allow a door to open in both directions. For this reason, they’re often called “saloon door hinges” or “café door hinges,” as they’re commonly used in both locations. For example, restaurant kitchen doors – which swing open both ways, and automatically close – are often hung with double action spring hinges.

These hinges differ from standard door hinges in a number of ways, and they’re available in all different sizes, finishes and weights. The size of the double-action hinge you will use depends on the size and weight of your door.

What Are Double Action Spring Hinges Used For?

Spring loaded hinges enable a door to open in both directions. These hinges are made with two spring-loaded pivots, enabling the 180-degree range of motion in either direction. They’re fashioned to a door and jamb like standard hinges, often in a mortise or indention, and they’re made from a variety of materials, including:

Satin or Polished Brass
Oil-Rubbed Bronze
Stainless Steel
Zinc Copper

Plus, another feature is that the spring tension increased. The double springs in each door can be adjusted for either more tension or less tension, for a faster or slower closing action. For example, high-tension spring hinges close more quickly and with greater force. In kitchens, the hinges are often tightened with less tension, so they swing slowly and freely in either direction.

Why Double Action Spring Hinges Are Different

The biggest differences between spring-loaded hinges and standard hinges are, of course, their ability to open in both directions and the self-closing action. That’s why double-action hinges are used in highly trafficked areas – like kitchens and industrial facilities – where the door will be opened and closed frequently and traffic will be coming in either direction.

Another difference is that a trio of double-action hinges is often used on each door, especially heavier doors. Plastic kitchen doors that are lightweight can often be attached with just two hinges, but for heavier doors, three hinges are needed to position the door. You can refer to the manufacturer’s recommendations for the size and number of hinges to use.

The reason that three hinges are often used is because they’re open and closed frequently. Often with just two hinges, the joint can quickly become loose. In this three-hinge installation, one is installed close to the top of the door, and a second is installed just below. The third hinge is attached lower to the ground. In this type of installation, the top hinge holds the brunt of the door weight.

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Underground LED Lights: A Useful Landscaping Fixture

May 29, 2015 Leave a comment

The rise of LED lighting has provided contractors with a relatively low-cost, efficient solution in a number of applications. One area that’s often overlooked though is in landscaping. Underground waterproof LED lights illuminate gardens, yards and patios beautifully, and they’re a useful tool for accenting any landscape.

Often, in-ground LED lights are used for illuminating pathways, sidewalks and gardens, and they offer several benefits over above-ground fixtures. For one, they blend in with the landscape better, because the lamps are buried in the ground and sit flush with the yard or patio. Thus, they’re easier to work around, and they’re also less likely to become a nighttime walking hazard. In addition, underground LED lights are much more energy efficient than traditional lamps and emit less heat, which helps reduce potential fire hazards and overall energy costs.

So what types of underground waterproof LED lights are available? How are they powered? And how can they be installed in landscapes?

Types of Underground LED Lights

In-ground LED fixtures are grouped in a few ways: by power source, wattage and functionality. Power sourcing is probably the biggest distinction in LED lights. On one side are solar-powered LED lights. These are installed like traditional in-ground lights, but the biggest difference is that they don’t need to be wired to a power source. Low-voltage DC-powered LED lights, on the other hand, require electrical wiring to a power source. One advantage of wired lights is that they can be turned off and on via a switch.

Secondly, in-ground LED landscape lights can also be grouped according to size, or wattage. Larger lamps have more mini LED lights, and thus they are brighter. Yet, size is less important with LED lights, because overall, they are brighter than traditional lamps. That’s why they’re great for landscape lighting; smaller lights can be used to achieve the same results as a larger traditional lamp.

Finally, you should consider the functionality of the lights. Some solar LED lamps, for instance, turn off and on automatically. This is advantageous for homeowners, as they require less maintenance. Other solar-powered fixtures, though, must be manually turned off and on. With wired lights, the options are often more varied. An electrician may be able to install timers, dimmers and auto on/off switches that enable more flexibility in your lighting options.

In-Ground Landscape Lights Installation Tips

Proper installation is the key to getting the most mileage out of your in-ground LED lights. Improperly installed lights can suffer from water damage or corrosion, and if the wiring isn’t done correctly, the lamp may short circuit. Here are a few tips:

The Right Sized Hole: Underground waterproof LED lights are buried in the ground, but one of the most common installation errors is digging a hole that’s too small. The hole should be about 1.5 times the size of the lamp, rather than just big enough to fit the fixture. Then, fine gravel should be used to create a buffer around the lamp. This allows water to drain faster, eliminating the problem of moisture buildup.
Positioning the Lens: The lamp lens should sit slightly above the grade, especially rounded lamps. Flat fixtures should be positioned to sit right at ground level. Burying your lamps below the grade will enable water to sit on top of the lamp, which over time, will result in water damage.

Proper Wiring: Follow the manufacturer’s installation instructions for proper wiring. Some lamps have different voltage needs and specialized wiring requirements. In most cases, with wired installation, more advanced electrician knowledge may be necessary.

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